King Valley Part Due - Wineries

The King Valley wine region is likened to Northern Italy, both in the landscape of rolling hills and more recently in the choice of grape varietals grown. There is a strong Italian presence in the region, and the festival “Weekend Fit for a King” is a winter celebration strongly reflecting the area’s Italian links.

The King Valley region is often portrayed as the King Valley “Prosecco Road”. This clever diversification is highly marketable, and leads to a point of difference from the numerous other wine regions in Victoria.

Brown Brothers

www.brownbrothers.com.au

239 Milawa Bobinawarrah Road, Milawa

The Grandfather of the region is steeped in the heritage of both the King Valley region and of the Brown Family history. Brown Brothers specialises in exploring a wide range of grape varieties, their extensive and diverse range of wines presents offerings for both the traditional and non-traditional wine lover. In 1989 Brown Brothers established the ‘Kindergarten’, an experimental “mini-winery” for testing new varietals - an innovation well ahead of its time. Many other wine makers in the region have subsequently adopted a similarly experimental approach.

The original shed still remains

Brown Brothers are a founding member of ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’, a group of twelve of Australia’s oldest wine families, charged with the purpose of raising the profile of Australian wine to the world and highlighting the quality and diversity of Australian wine. Together the families represent seventeen wine-growing regions across Australia, forty-eight generations of winemakers and in excess of 1000 years of wine growing experience. Basically, they know a thing or two about good quality wine. This group is doing tremendous things for the promotion of Australian wine and the preservation of the history of Australian wines.

We were fortunate enough to enjoy the ‘Feast fit for a King’ lunch held in the Epicurean Centre at Brown Brothers. Ross and his wife, Judy, are such charming company and it was absolute pleasure to dine with them at this decadent feast.

‘A Feast Fit for King’

·         Whole fried school prawns

·         White anchovies

·         Marinated olives

·         Pickled Mushrooms

(Brown Brothers Prosecco NV)

·         Pickled ox tongue and salsa verde

·         Cotechino sausage and braised lentils

·         Rabbit and snail pies

·         Guinea fowl and duck liver terraine

·         Boiled eggs with pine nut sauce

·         Farro and cavalo nero salad

(Pinot Grigio 2011 and Limited Release Vermentino 2011)

·         Smoked pork neck and candied cumquats

·         Roasted legs of Nug Nug goat

·         Whole roasted ducks with walnut stuffing

·         Braised chickpeas

·         Assorted root vegetables

(Montepulciano 2010 and Barbara 1999)

·         Assorted Milawa cheeses

(Dolcetto & Syrah 2010 and Moscato 2011)

Smoked pork neck and the whole roasted duck



Nug Nug Goat

After the delicious bountiful feast, Ross took us on a tour of one of the Brown Family enviable cellars, which is an incredible archive of the Brown Brothers wines and was a fantastic end to the day of regal lunching!

The role of the Brown Family in the growth and establishment of the Australian wine industry should not be underestimated. Their Milawa cellar door is a must visit, as is dining at their aptly named Epicurean Centre. Our favourites of the range were the Patricia Shiraz, the Barbara 1999 and Montepulciano 2010.

If you’ve never experienced Prosecco or a Tempranillo, both Brown Brothers releases are widely stocked throughout Australia and retail at about $15.00 - $18.00 and are well worth sampling. Brown Brothers wines are also stocked and distributed in the UK, Singapore, Malaysia, New Zealand and Europe. The Brown Brothers range certainly offers some very affordable options which present an opportunity to sample varietals you might not normally purchase.

With the next generation of the Brown family now working in the business, I am sure many more great achievements are in store.

Dal Zotto Wines

www.dalzotto.com.au

4861 Wangaratta-Whitfield Road, Whitfield

Otto Dal Zotto migrated from Australia in 1967 and found himself in King Valley in 1987.  In what is a reoccurring story in region, the collapse of the tobacco industry led Otto to try his luck at making wines. Now his son Michael is the winemaker, and Dal Zotto maintains a strong family feel. In fact Nonna Elena’s vegetable garden still supplies produce to Dal Zotto’s trattoria. Otto’s other son Christian is the winery’s marketing manager and has certainly done a great job with the brand. Funky styling and packaging of the products has certainly attracted a younger and growing crowd.

I really enjoyed the range of wines at Dal Zotto, the reds were on the whole more enjoyable than many King Valley reds we tried. My picks were the L’Immigrante Prosecco and the Barbera. The Elena is very good too.

We also had the most amazing slow cooked Pork Belly roll with slaw. So so so good. If that dish is an indication of the food at the trattoria, we’ll definitely be back.

Pork Belly Roll

Chrismont

www.chrismont.com.au

251 Upper King River Road, Cheshunt

 

Chrismont has the most spectacular view, perched on the upper end of the Valley. This former tobacco plantation made the transition to vineyards in the late 1970’s, and now produces a wide range of wines. Chrismont has two labels, ‘Chrismont’ and ‘La Zona’. Chrismont consists of more classically Northern European varietals such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Shiraz etc. La Zona is an exclusively Mediterranean range which includes Prosecco, Arneis, Sangiovese, Barbera and Tempranillo. My understanding is James Halliday named Chrismont one of his top ten ‘Dark Horses” of 2010.

My favourite was the Chrismont Simpatico Chardonnay Pinot Noir, a really delicious deep flavoured sparkling which surely gives some of the best Australian sparkling wines a run for their money.  At the other end of their range, their “Casa” (meaning house) sparkling was surprisingly good in light of the price point.

I am definitely planning another visit and hoping to convince the Husband to stay in their guest house.

Chrismont's spectacular view

Pizzini Wines

http://www.pizzini.com.au/

175 King Valley Road Whitfield

I was not convinced on their wines. Nothing bad at all, but more importantly nothing I really loved. Similar to the wineries in the regions, their ranges include Arneis, Verduzzo, Nebbiolo, and Sangiovese. Their Prosecco was good – nicely fresh and clean. I’d be keen to visit their cooking school, which looks to be doing some fabulous things and includes classes on Antipasti and Tapas, Pasta, Ravioli and Gnocchi.

Sam Miranda Wines

http://www.sammiranda.com.au/

1019 Snow Road, Oxley

A very impressive cellar door (designed by Sydney Architect Alex Popov) is a definite standout site of the King Valley. A really cosy but funky space that suits the younger crowd to a tee. Again, a good range of sparkling things – Prosecco, Sparkling Durif and my favourite, the Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir. The champagne like yeast taste was really impressive, and arises due to a fermentation period in the bottle in a traditional Method Champenoise style. Well worth a visit if you are in the area.

The Husband disappearing into the cellar door (glass in hand!)

The impressive cellar door upon our departure

"I’m not a glutton – I am an explorer of food” – King Valley Part Uno

Erma Bombeck was on the right track when she coined the phrase ”I’m not a glutton – I am an explorer of food”. Over the June long weekend the Husband and I journeyed to the King Valley and the Milawa regions to explore the copious offerings of food and wine.

What an opulent, uncommercialised food bowl it is. The Milawa area was subject to pastoral leases as early as 1838. The area then grew throughout the 1850’s as weary travelers journeyed through on their way to the new found gold deposits.  Now the rolling hills and large gums shade crops, dairy cows, beef cattle and lambs. Bees, mustard seeds, saffron all flourish in the fertile soil. During our visit the crisp nights iced up the paddocks, giving way to clear sunny days.

Currently, 80% of every dollar spent on general groceries and 60% of every dollar spent on fruit and vegetables is spent at Coles or Woolworths, yet we’re reading stories like this one , regarding the use of gasses to ripen produce and other such nasties.  Every Australian should be visiting farmers markets or one step further - visiting the producers on their home turf. I was surprised that some Melbournians I’ve spoken to were previously not aware of the King Valley region!

My favourite producers

·    Myrtleford Butter Factory – 15 Myrtle Street, Great Alpine Road, Myrtleford

Set in picturesque Myrtleford, this little dairy is producing some fabulous cultured butters, pure buttermilk and buttermilk ricotta. The Mother and Daughter team, Naomi and Bronwyn Ingleton are producing the only pure buttermilk in Australia. They source their cream from local high country cows, and then blend it in a European style manner. Mount Zero pink lake salts are added to the salted butter range. Also onsite is a lovely little café with a very delicious looking breakfast and lunch menu. Buy their butters throughout the Eastern seaboard, or online here. You can also join their Butter Club for opportunities to buy seasonal specials such as Truffle butter and Saffron butter. Butter up now!

Watch them making their butter :

·    Milawa Cheese Company – 17 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Rd, Milawa

Originally set up to emulate Gorgonzola Dolce, a mild creamy blue cheese, David and Anne Brown have been producing their handmade cheeses since 1988. Their range of goats and cows milk cheese includes fresh cheeses (curd, chevres), white mould cheeses (Ceridwen, Brie, Camembert), hard cheeses (Capricornia, Tomme), washed rind cheese and blues. Their award winning cheeses are stocked far and wide across Australia (Simon Johnson, Bottega Rotolo (SA), ‘Say Cheese’ (SA)) and there is also a second Milawa Cheese shop in Carlton North.



My dairy purchases... Lucky we have guests this coming weekend!

·    Gundowring Ice creams

Unfortunately we didn’t get to their property due to time constraints, but found their products at the Milawa Cheese Company. The ice creams are produced at their historic 1840’s dairy, using the milk of their Holstein cows herd. Their range includes flavours such as Liquorice, Ironbark Honey, Ginger, Golden Syrup and Muscat. You can find their ice creams in most Australian states (bar SA & NT – sorry!).

I have already informed the Husband another trip to the King Valley that captures a visit to their property is a non-negotiable.



Gundowring Lemon Curd...
It only survived one evening in the Epicurean Household!

·    Walkabout Apairies - 1531 Snow Road, Milawa

Jenny and Rod Whitehead have been beekeepers for the past 36 years. Jenny’s passion for, and knowledge of, the bees is clearly evident. We visited their property for a tasting of their delicious honey range which includes Red Gum, Mudgegonga Stringybark, Mountain Harvest and a very delicious Creamed Honey. There is a noticeable difference in depth and intensity of their types of honey which is really interesting. Due to the wintery Victorian weather, the bees had all been transported to their warmer winter houses on the NSW south coast!  As you are buying direct from the producer, the range is really well priced for such a high quality product.



More purchases!

Learn more about Walkabout Honey from this You Tube clip.

·    Murray Breweries

– 29 Last Street, Beechworth

Murray Brewery first opened in 1865, at the height of the gold rush, producing beer. In the 1920’s temperance groups shut down the alcohol production (except for Stout oddly enough) and Murray Breweries focused on producing cordials with the aid of the nearby natural spring water. Today they still produce flavoured cordials such as Mint Julep, St Clements, Peppermint and Chilli Punch. Perfect for adding to cocktails, a Gatsby style-prohibition themed party anyone?



Already partially consumed!

·    The Olive Shop – Snow Road, Milawa

This store stocks one of the most extensive range olive oil and olive related products I’ve ever come across. Kalamata, Manzanillo’s, green olives and black olives are all present and come in multiple flavoured varieties (eg. Chilli, herbs, garlic etc). There are at least nine different local brands of olive oil, plus a range of imported oils. We visited at a good time as we were able to try the most recent season’s new pressings which were really fresh and the quality of the oil was clearly evident. The shop also stocks a range of olive related accessories, such as implements to cure your own olives.

·    Milawa Mustard Store – 1597 Glenrowan-Myrtleford Road, Milawa VIC 3678

Jim and Kirsty Mellor make 18 different varieties of mustards, and grow their own mustard seeds in paddocks off of nearby Snow Road. Legend has it that Ned Kelly once hid in the cellars of the shop premises, which was a pub in its early days. Now, bushrangers long gone, their delightful little store is home to their mustard range plus 20 other varieties of sauces, chutneys and jams.  My favorites: ginger and orange mustard, balsamic mustard and lemon and dill mustard.

 

Would I venture to the region again? A resounding yes, even if just for the quality of their dairy products. I’d like to see a Maggie Beer type figurehead of the area emerge, such as Maggie has done in the Barossa Valley, in order to bring well-deserved recognition to the area. This might be the key to increasing the average Victorian’s knowledge of the area.

We also wined and dined at a number of the wineries, particularly Brown Brothers. Stay tuned for the update.

The Moon - Part One

We start the adventure on our Honeymoon, a.k.a “The Moon”.  The Moon took place in two parts across two states, commencing in the Barossa Valley and finishing with a drive along the Great Ocean Road. The Moon was a chance to escape airports which we frequent fair too often for business purposes and voluminous trips back to our home state. The Barossa Valley was therefore the perfect escape. Baggage check-in and token cheese and crackers in the Qantas lounge need not apply!

The Barossa is a region we both love, and did not frequent nearly as often as we should have whilst we lived in Adelaide. Here are our most memorable experiences during the Moon.

fermentAsian

90 Murray Street, Tanunda – www.fermentasian.com.au

This is a dining experience not to be missed whilst in the Barossa. In a region traditionally dominated by Germanic influenced cuisine (think wiener schnitzel and smoked meats in many different forms!), fermentAsian is spicing up valley produce with south-east Asian flavours.  

Chef/owner Tuoi Do together with her partner Grant Dickson have created a formidable menu and wine list, and believe in supporting local producers whom share in their ethical beliefs (think organic, biodynamic producers). Every dish is characterised by such an intense freshness and perfectly formed flavours. The key to these dishes is the quality of produce grown by Tuoi’s parents, whom have created a kitchen garden producing the exotic herbs and vegetables intrinsic to the dishes.

Grant also works for Rockford Wines, and has assembled an incredibly comprehensive wine list. The wine list showcases Barossa favourites, exciting newcomers as well an array of imported wines and wines from other Australian regions.

The restaurants flair far surpasses the South Australian Gouger Street crowd. A dining experience at fermentAsian is an absolute must.

We shared

·         Thit lon cuon la lot- Fresh betal leaves with sticky caramelised pork and incendiary components

Perfectly fresh crisp betal leave with a sizeable whack of chilli. Explosive start!

·         Gio mia Sai Gon – Saigon sugar cane prawns with lime-chilli-salt

Loved the sweetness of the prawn meat and sugar cane combined with the DIY sauce flavours

·         Lon voi gung va cam – Barossa Berkshire pork belly with ginger and orange sauce

Beautifully cooked succulent pork belly with crispy glazed top, fantastic marriage of marinate and the meat.

·         Goi Nam – Warm mixed mushroom salad with galangal dressing

 A unexpected highlight of the meal. The depth of flavours created by different mushrooms and sourness of galangal is remarkable.

·         Ca ri bo – Penang peanut curry of Barossa black Angus beef ribs

Decadent and creamy, meat falling from the bone. Good dish and again perfectly cooked, but not as strong or original as the other dishes.

·         Banh Chocola va xa – Chocolate and Lemongrass mousse

Freshness is created by the use of lemon grass, great texture to the mousse. A good play on a more traditional dessert.

We drank

To begin: 2011 Rockford White Frontignac, Barossa Valley SA.

In the middle: 2010 Radford ‘Quartz Garden’ Riesling, Eden Valley, SA.

To end: NZ Radford Fortified Riesling and 2009 Navazos ‘Casa Del Inca’ Pedro Ximenez black grape cherry sherry

What I loved:  It all – but especially the incredibly freshness and attention to detail in every dish, flavours are perfectly explosive in every dish.

What I’d like to see:  A chef’s tasting menu or the option of smaller serves so that we could have tried more of the amazing menu!

Comparable to: Longrain (Melbourne & Sydney), Coda (Flinders Lane, Melbourne)

Appellation at the Louise

Corner Seppeltsfield and Stonewall Roads, Marananga, Barossa Valley SA

www.thelouise.com.au

 We stayed at the Louise during the Barossa Valley portion of the Moon. The Louise is a luxury boutique hotel beautifully perched above vineyards and rolling countryside. The views are spectacular, but the standout feature of the hotel is the privacy offered by the opulent suites. The Louise offers a large range of services and tours of the local area, as one would expect from a luxury boutique hotel of its character.

Having read many favourable reviews I was greatly anticipating dining at Appellation.  The menu is based around local ingredients sourced from an extensive network of local suppliers and Appellation’s own kitchen garden. More than 85% of the menu travels less than 30 km’s to the table, and the focus is on flavour, texture, diversity and sustainability. The daily chef’s tasting menu is billed as a premier degustation showcasing the particular season, outstanding and unique produce accompanied by the world class Barossa wines.  An  a la carte menu of small plates is also on offer, with recommendation of three plates per person.

The restaurant itself is a luxurious series of rooms creating different dining spaces maintaining the Louise’s privacy attributes. When dining, guests should arrive at least a half an hour early to enjoy an aperif on the outdoor lounge area overlooking the spectacular countryside and kitchen garden.

After much deliberation, the Husband and I chose the chef’s tasting menu and accompanying wine flight.

We ate and drank

·         Pastry wafer with caramelized onion, olive and anchovy (2008 Bethany Brut)

·         Salad of mushroom with goats curd, roasted almond and raspberry dressing (2011 Spinifex Rose)

·         Twice cooked belly of Berkshire pork with braised cabbage and dill pickles (2011 Pewsey Vale ‘Prima’ Riesling)

·         Rare fillet of beef with braised beetroot  and buttered potato puree (2008 Maverick ‘Twins’ GSM)

·         Peach and almond flan with Jersey cream

The quality of produce was exceptional, and every dish was cooked perfectly. The menu is perfectly pitched at an international or interstate guest who would no doubt be highly impressed. Whilst I enjoyed every course, I was a little disappointed that the dishes lacked a creative element present in the best degustation menus. The creative element is present in the a la carte offerings with dishes such as ‘mildly spiced Spencer Gulf Prawns with spinach and almond milk infused with citrus’.

The wine matching and service are both exemplary, and overall Appellation offers a fine dining experience comparable to the best in Australia.

I loved: The quality of the produce, exceptional service.

What I’d like to see: More adventure in the chef’s tasting menu.

L’Edera

20 Bank Street Port Fairy, Victoria – ledera.com.au

Port Fairy is a quaint fishing village 300 km’s from Melbourne. Historically, the town was settled for the purposes of sealing and whaling. Now it is quiet town with wide streets and a large number of impressive heritage listed buildings. The town population swells during the annual Port Fairy Roots Festival by around 40,000 people, as well as during Easter and summer breaks.  It appears the normal crowds may not support a extensive number of quality restaurants during non-peak times as the dining options were some what limited.

L’Edera is a gem hidden amongst the few take away fish and chip shops in the town. Nestled in the original Council chambers for the Belfast Municipal District, the bluestone structure was also the local post office. Now it houses a front bar/ lounge, a medium indoor dining area leading to a outdoor dining area.

Chef Giovanni De Cicco uses fresh local ingredients to create authentic Italian dishes. He appeared to both the chef and kitchen hand, working diligently in his kitchen alone.  There were two other staff, a front of house and a waitress – although the service was exceptionally friendly and warming, the restaurant was not adequately staffed.  A number of dishes and wine options were unavailable due to a busy proceeding weekend. One couple rather rudely left the restaurant when their chosen chardonnay and fish dishes were unavailable.

However, all complaints are abated when the food arrives. Flavoursome, fresh and balanced are thoughts that come to mind when remembering the dishes. Care and thoughtfulness is evident in the four dishes we ordered. The food produced is truly delicious and satisfying.

The wine list is well constructed with carefully selected wines that match the food and are reasonably priced. Surprising omissions are a champagne option and more than one chardonnay option. Both would be popular with the city tourists who venture from Melbourne to  frequent the million dollar beach houses of Port Fairy.

We ate

·         Carciofi di Ripetta from Rome, crispy fried baby Artichoke Hearts served with a Tallegio sauce (shared)

Cooked to bring out the very best of a difficult, distinctive vegetable. Tellegio sauce is a great accompaniment, flavoursome without overpowering the delicate artichoke flavour.

·         The Husband: Saltinbocca all Romana from Rome, thinly sliced Milk Veal layered with Proscuitto and Sage pan cooked in white wine sauce

Devoured with great acclaim by the Husband!

·         Risotto Nero con Zuichini from the Amalfi Coast, organic black wild rice folded with sliced Zuichinni, fresh tomato, basil, buffalo mozzarella and a touch of white wine

Delicious bursts of fresh summary vegetables, buffalo is pleasantly evident without over powering the other flavours. Wild rice is cooked to maintain a slight crunch, bringing a delightful texture to the dish.

·         Pere al Prosecco, pear poached in Prosecco wine with Cinnamon and a touch of chilli, rosemary, bay leaf and served with marinated strawberries (shared)

Good dessert, but would be greatly improved by a more prominent kick of chilli and a more ‘al dente’ pear which was slightly too soft.

We drank

 La Riva dei Frati Prosecco, Santa Christina Sangiovese.

What I loved: The entrée and mains clearly demonstrated such skill and care, and were a very delicious thoughtful interpretation of authentic Italian cuisine

What I’d like to see: Attention to detail in the service provided and general restaurant set up. Bar / Lounge area was cold and the dining area was split into two distinct sections, creating an artificial feeling of bistro and fine dining elements which doesn’t really work. Attention to the last 5% would turn this great dining experience to an exceptional one.

Comparable to: Ambrosini’s (Norwood, SA)