Wednesday, 4 July 2012

LG Kitchen School @ South Melbourne Market


Stall 90, Cecil Street, South
Melbourne Market

Recent Australian culinary trends haven’t been kind to the humble potato. Currently my Gen Y compatriots are more likely to dish up quinoa, freekah, polenta or couscous than a delicious creamy mash. The spud has become the enemy of the low carb dieter; the tracksuit pants of the vegetables, you’ll always turn to it for comfort but just not in front of your friends.
Perhaps the hunt for the latest trendy ingredient has created somewhat of an abyss of cooking skills regarding more traditional produce and many may be ignorant regarding just how good the potato can be. Last week I was very fortunate to be a guest at the LG Kitchen at the South Melbourne Market for a class on “Spud Heaven – Amazing Tasmanian seasonal potatoes; star of every dish” presented by Georgie Dragwidge of Georgie’s Harvest (remember her here) and chef Emma Mackay.

The LG Kitchen class is a good balance of a little hands on time and a lot of sampling of the dishes!  Our class of ten consisted of a mix of dedicated spud lovers, a couple of bloggers and a former Masterchef contestant. And unlike some cooking classes I’ve been to, this time I learnt a lot of useful things. The best tips I learnt included:


·    Always buy unwashed potatoes – the commercial washing process involves nasty detergents;
·    Boil your potatoes with their skins on, or else the flavour will leech out and your spud will become waterlogged;
·    If you have to rest cut potatoes before use, put them in cold water or they will discolour like apples;
·    Puree any soups containing potatoes if you wish to thicken the soup;
·    When cooking something in a French style, use white onions rather than brown; and
·    If you’re cooking anything with tomatoes, add brown sugar to the tomatoes to bring out the sweetness and reduce acidity.

 

Energetic Emma


LG screen gave you a bird's eye view of the action!
Check out the bowls of the different types of potatoes at the
top of the screen.

The basic key to spud success is choosing the correct variety for your purpose. Some are great for a creamy mash, some for roasting, some for a gratin, others are best for chips. For example, why mash your Kipfler when it is so much better roasted? And, if you don't know what you are going to cook, buy the Nicola potato - she's the best all rounder.

Our Tasmanian potato lesson plan consisted of: 

·     Seafood Chowder (Pink Eye potatoes)
·     Nicoise Salad (Pink Fir Apple potatoes)
·     Gnocchi Napoli (Blue Zhar and Viking potatoes)
·     Lamb Moussaka (Nicola potatoes)
·     Georgie’s Yia Yia’s skordalia (Blue Zhar potatoes)

Seafood Chowder



Nicoise Salad served with Emma's Tuna Cake
and Yia Yia's Skordalia

Many of the delicious potato varieties we used are hard to find and are definitely not going to be at your local supermarket, so pop down to Georgie’s Harvest at the South Melbourne Market for a visit and quiz her for the perfect potato for your dish.
 

Georgie's Yia Yia's Skordalia, Blue Zhar potatoes,
garlic and olive oil all from Georgie's Harvest

The food was absolutely delicious, and the gigantic portions cried out for over-indulgence. Aside from the fantastic food, a great aspect of the class was the interaction between class members both with each other and with Georgie and Emma. The class is a great way to meet with other like-minded "foodies", so don't be afraid to attend without your plus-one. In fact, it's hard to think of many ways this class could be improved, other than perhaps making the recipe notes a little more detailed, as some of the tips were not included in the notes.

After experiencing just how good gnocchi can be, I decided to try out my newly acquired skills. Emma and Georgie had taught me that hot potatoes are the key to good gnocchi; if the temperature is not above 70°C the starch in the potato will set. Also buy a potato ricer, it makes the process a lot quicker and means you don't burn your hands trying to mash the hot potato. I paired my gnocchi with a simple tomato sauce with Tasmanian Huon Valley mushrooms (also from Georgie's Harvest) and Pork Chorizo from T.O.Ms. I’m pleased to report my guests found that the results were delicious!



Gnocchi, my way.

I had a fantastic evening at the LG Kitchen cooking school, and as you can see from the photo above I've subsequently enjoyed recreating gnocchi at home. Perhaps rather than looking for the latest 'it' ingredient, we shouldn't lose sight of looking to create more with what we have at hand and sharpening our knowledge of, and cooking skills, using produce from our backyards.

Check out the very tempting class schedule here.  Upcoming classes feature topics as diverse as the celebration of truffles, Japanese fusion, inspirational dishes of Vietnam with Geoff Lindsay from Dandelion and a Spanish evening with Josep Espuga (who has worked in Mugaritz in San Sebastian - currently San Pellegrino's No.3 restaurant in the world!).  I'll be booking in fast!

Monday, 25 June 2012

King Valley Part Due - Wineries

The King Valley wine region is likened to Northern Italy, both in the landscape of rolling hills and more recently in the choice of grape varietals grown. There is a strong Italian presence in the region, and the festival “Weekend Fit for a King” is a winter celebration strongly reflecting the area’s Italian links.
The King Valley region is often portrayed as the King Valley “Prosecco Road”. This clever diversification is highly marketable, and leads to a point of difference from the numerous other wine regions in Victoria.
Brown Brothers
www.brownbrothers.com.au
239 Milawa Bobinawarrah Road, Milawa
The Grandfather of the region is steeped in the heritage of both the King Valley region and of the Brown Family history. Brown Brothers specialises in exploring a wide range of grape varieties, their extensive and diverse range of wines presents offerings for both the traditional and non-traditional wine lover. In 1989 Brown Brothers established the ‘Kindergarten’, an experimental “mini-winery” for testing new varietals - an innovation well ahead of its time. Many other wine makers in the region have subsequently adopted a similarly experimental approach.
The original shed still remains

Brown Brothers are a founding member of ‘Australia’s First Families of Wine’, a group of twelve of Australia’s oldest wine families, charged with the purpose of raising the profile of Australian wine to the world and highlighting the quality and diversity of Australian wine. Together the families represent seventeen wine-growing regions across Australia, forty-eight generations of winemakers and in excess of 1000 years of wine growing experience. Basically, they know a thing or two about good quality wine. This group is doing tremendous things for the promotion of Australian wine and the preservation of the history of Australian wines.
We were fortunate enough to enjoy the ‘Feast fit for a King’ lunch held in the Epicurean Centre at Brown Brothers. Ross and his wife, Judy, are such charming company and it was absolute pleasure to dine with them at this decadent feast.
‘A Feast Fit for King’
·         Whole fried school prawns
·         White anchovies
·         Marinated olives
·         Pickled Mushrooms
(Brown Brothers Prosecco NV)

·         Pickled ox tongue and salsa verde
·         Cotechino sausage and braised lentils
·         Rabbit and snail pies
·         Guinea fowl and duck liver terraine
·         Boiled eggs with pine nut sauce
·         Farro and cavalo nero salad
(Pinot Grigio 2011 and Limited Release Vermentino 2011)

·         Smoked pork neck and candied cumquats
·         Roasted legs of Nug Nug goat
·         Whole roasted ducks with walnut stuffing
·         Braised chickpeas
·         Assorted root vegetables
(Montepulciano 2010 and Barbara 1999)

·         Assorted Milawa cheeses
(Dolcetto & Syrah 2010 and Moscato 2011)

Smoked pork neck and the whole roasted duck


Nug Nug Goat
After the delicious bountiful feast, Ross took us on a tour of one of the Brown Family enviable cellars, which is an incredible archive of the Brown Brothers wines and was a fantastic end to the day of regal lunching!

The role of the Brown Family in the growth and establishment of the Australian wine industry should not be underestimated. Their Milawa cellar door is a must visit, as is dining at their aptly named Epicurean Centre. Our favourites of the range were the Patricia Shiraz, the Barbara 1999 and Montepulciano 2010.

If you’ve never experienced Prosecco or a Tempranillo, both Brown Brothers releases are widely stocked throughout Australia and retail at about $15.00 - $18.00 and are well worth sampling. Brown Brothers wines are also stocked and distributed in the UK, Singapore, Malaysia, New Zealand and Europe. The Brown Brothers range certainly offers some very affordable options which present an opportunity to sample varietals you might not normally purchase.
With the next generation of the Brown family now working in the business, I am sure many more great achievements are in store.

Dal Zotto Wines
www.dalzotto.com.au
4861 Wangaratta-Whitfield Road, Whitfield
Otto Dal Zotto migrated from Australia in 1967 and found himself in King Valley in 1987.  In what is a reoccurring story in region, the collapse of the tobacco industry led Otto to try his luck at making wines. Now his son Michael is the winemaker, and Dal Zotto maintains a strong family feel. In fact Nonna Elena’s vegetable garden still supplies produce to Dal Zotto’s trattoria. Otto’s other son Christian is the winery’s marketing manager and has certainly done a great job with the brand. Funky styling and packaging of the products has certainly attracted a younger and growing crowd.
I really enjoyed the range of wines at Dal Zotto, the reds were on the whole more enjoyable than many King Valley reds we tried. My picks were the L’Immigrante Prosecco and the Barbera. The Elena is very good too.
We also had the most amazing slow cooked Pork Belly roll with slaw. So so so good. If that dish is an indication of the food at the trattoria, we’ll definitely be back.

Pork Belly Roll

Chrismont
www.chrismont.com.au
251 Upper King River Road, Cheshunt
 
Chrismont has the most spectacular view, perched on the upper end of the Valley. This former tobacco plantation made the transition to vineyards in the late 1970’s, and now produces a wide range of wines. Chrismont has two labels, ‘Chrismont’ and ‘La Zona’. Chrismont consists of more classically Northern European varietals such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Shiraz etc. La Zona is an exclusively Mediterranean range which includes Prosecco, Arneis, Sangiovese, Barbera and Tempranillo. My understanding is James Halliday named Chrismont one of his top ten ‘Dark Horses” of 2010.
My favourite was the Chrismont Simpatico Chardonnay Pinot Noir, a really delicious deep flavoured sparkling which surely gives some of the best Australian sparkling wines a run for their money.  At the other end of their range, their “Casa” (meaning house) sparkling was surprisingly good in light of the price point.
I am definitely planning another visit and hoping to convince the Husband to stay in their guest house.
Chrismont's spectacular view

Pizzini Wines
http://www.pizzini.com.au/
175 King Valley Road Whitfield
I was not convinced on their wines. Nothing bad at all, but more importantly nothing I really loved. Similar to the wineries in the regions, their ranges include Arneis, Verduzzo, Nebbiolo, and Sangiovese. Their Prosecco was good – nicely fresh and clean. I’d be keen to visit their cooking school, which looks to be doing some fabulous things and includes classes on Antipasti and Tapas, Pasta, Ravioli and Gnocchi.

Sam Miranda Wines
http://www.sammiranda.com.au/
1019 Snow Road, Oxley
A very impressive cellar door (designed by Sydney Architect Alex Popov) is a definite standout site of the King Valley. A really cosy but funky space that suits the younger crowd to a tee. Again, a good range of sparkling things – Prosecco, Sparkling Durif and my favourite, the Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir. The champagne like yeast taste was really impressive, and arises due to a fermentation period in the bottle in a traditional Method Champenoise style. Well worth a visit if you are in the area.
The Husband disappearing into the cellar door (glass in hand!)

The impressive cellar door upon our departure